By Andrew Galarneau

(Above: Ethan Cox takes a sip of coffee inside the soon-to-open Café Gezellig.)

Ethan Cox was a partner in Community Beer Works when it opened its Seventh Street taproom. He knows how difficult it can be to build a business serving the public.

Then he got a chance to offer the city a place on his terms. Cox and his wife, Jennifer, expect to introduce Café Gezellig to Buffalo in June. 

A grand old building in the heart of Buffalo’s former Polish-American epicenter became available after the death of its owner, community activist Bob Sienkiewicz. Across the street from the Adam Mickiewicz Library and Dramatic Circle, Café Gezellig is aiming to establish a purely Buffalo hangout that encourages thinking as much as drinking.

Among other things, it is a place for East Side activists looking for somewhere to meet. “I want to build communities again,” said Cox.

Drawing inspiration from Belgian bar culture and Japanese jazz bars, Cox aims to create a chill space for communal refreshment and reflection. There will be a full bar, custom-roasted coffee, and a small menu. 

The kitchen isn’t restaurant-grade, but it will be more than enough for now. “We’ll have mac and cheese and some salads and soups and stuff, and then a lot of little snacky type things. Stuff that’s easy to prepare — sausage, cheese, maybe some pickles.”

Every beer will come with a little cheese and crackers, Belgian style. Jennifer has been working on the cracker recipe and seems to have dialed it in.

Gezellig is a Dutch word. “It means comfy, or cozy, or nostalgic, or warm,” Cox said. “They’ll tell you you can’t really translate it, but, of course, that just means you need a lot of words to translate it.”

The Polish Co-Operative Savings & Loan Association, founded in 1909 by Polish-Americans to serve Polish-Americans, built 617 Fillmore Ave. as its home in 1920.

The bank moved out in the 1930s for bigger digs on Broadway as Buffalo boomed. Left behind were a walk-in safe, fireproof walls made of steel-reinforced concrete, and its name across the Greek-style tympanum-and-pillar facade, thanks to Polish-American architect Wladyslaw Zawadzki.

The building became the Polish Army Veterans Association of America Post #1. Then, a branch of the Buffalo Public Library.

For now, Cox and company need to reach inspectability, with projects like removing part of a wall for an accessible washroom. Thanks to Wladyslaw Zawadzki, that means spending hours with an angle grinder, burning through cutting discs.

“Well, it was built to last,” sighed Cox. “That concrete won’t ever go anywhere, and there’s no fire concerns here, because there’s not a lot of wood.”

If you have an idea or contribution, contact ethan@cafegezellig.com.

REVIEW: Hidden behind Guy’s Subs in Akron, Cippolina has earned a well-deserved reputation as a sleeper hit for Italian-American favorites. A decade after Jerry Clementi opened the place with second cousin Laurie Bordonaro Mozée, the former Trattoria Aroma partner is still kneading the daily bread and making his own burrata. That’s two of a hundred little touches that draw crowds to downtown Akron, making reservations necessary. (For patrons, later this week.)

BUFFALO, BOOKS & BEER: Join me Wednesday, May 6 at The Place as I talk Buffalo restaurants, eating and cooking with Brian Castner and Matt Higgins, hosts of the barroom literary series Buffalo, Books, and Beer.

I’ll be talking about my first book, “Where to Eat in Buffalo 2026,” work on the sequel, restaurant reviewing and some of the shockingly good restaurants opening in the 716 area code.

It starts at 7 p.m., and is free to the public. Food and drink will be available for purchase at The Place, a historic Elmwood Village tavern at 229 Lexington Ave. Copies of my book will be available for sale at the event by Talking Leaves, Buffalo’s premier independent bookstore.

Come on by, wet your whistle, and whet your appetite.

BURMESE 101: On April 30, guests can enjoy five tastes of Elizabeth Sher’s repertoire in Burmese 101 at International House. Kickoff is 6 p.m. I’ll explain what you’re tasting, how to make it yourself, where to buy the ingredients and answer any questions you might have.

Menu: Tea leaf salad, chicken curry puff, green papaya salad, owno khao swe, lotus flower cookie.

The $30 ticket price includes tax, tip, and recipes. Buy tickets here.

CRUMMY BEHAVIOR: Anastasia Nikolaeva, owner of Anastasia’s Artisan Bread in North Tonawanda, is a relatively unflappable person. Yet Saturday night, after a long day that began in the wee hours, as bakery days do, she decided her day was not done before crafting an epistle to her followers. 

When I read her note, it reminded me of so many similar stories from bakery and restaurant owners. Since the pandemic, there has been a noticeable uptick in customers yelling at staffers about small inconveniences or disappointments that are completely out of the staffer’s control.

Nikolaeva speaks for herself here, but her words echo an entire community of people working hard to feed you, despite everything. Please keep them in mind, and consider interrupting other customers who have gotten on their high dudgeon.

What a Saturday! Under this gorgeous picture of impeccable pastries let’s discuss something important.

When you come to my bakery with my name above the door you have to treat my team behind the counter with kindness and patience. They are not just serving the line one customer after the other, they are my bakers, my team, people who help run this place day after day, big tasks and small. 

All of them are here with great energy and attitude from 5 a.m. to 6 a.m., getting all the planned product ready, baked, and displayed. Trays and trays, that are all baked in various ovens, at various temperatures and following the number of separate timers, each one of them is cross trained and knows everything. 

They are here not because they have to be but because they choose to. 

So I promise next time someone is rude to them I will be walking out and letting some Slavic vibes out, don’t challenge me. I am not afraid to lose a couple of customers who are not worthy of our wonderful place, my team deserves the best.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Good lox/bagel in Amherst/Williamsville? I’m going to be out there tomorrow morning and I’d like one. Bruegger’s need not apply.

• u/The_Ineffable_One, Reddit

A: You want BagelGrounds. 

Lauren Stall and her family have brought the New York City style bagel line tradition to Clarence with BagelGrounds. The line forms at 8560 Main St. three mornings each week: Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

More reading from Michael Chelus of Nittany Epicurean:

• Mr. Galarneau told us about delicious food Chef Stephen Pusatieri is serving at Bistro Avera[Four Bites]
• Learn Burmese 101 at International House on 4/30 with Chef/Owner Elizabeth Sher [Four Bites]
• Pizza Fest returns to Resurgence Brewing Company on 4/19 [Buffalo Beer League]
• Francesca wrote about how Hencraft is giving Shake Shack and Chik-Fil-A some competition for their fried chicken sandwiches [Buffalo News]
• Alan told us how Chef Darian Bryan is showing his personality on Food Network’s “Next Level Chef” [Buffalo News]
• Strangers are buy people beers at a brewery housed in a former church in Niagara-on-the-Lake [Step Out Buffalo]
• Andrea wrote about all the different types of flights you can get at Piece of the Pie [Step Out Buffalo]
• Sarah put together a list of three places for cheap eats in the Southtowns including Apollo Family Restaurant, ZJ’s Family Restaurant and more [Step Out Buffalo]
• Resurgence Brewing Company is holding a grand opening celebration of its new location in Fort Myers this weekend [Buffalo Beer League]
• Brian suggested we take a trip down the 219 and visit ten different breweries including Ellicottville Brewing Company, Hamburg Brewing Company, Mystic Brewing and more [Buffalo Beer League]
• Brian’s Buffalo Beer Buzz told us about the return of Sour Power to Pizza Plant, the 12th annual The Dude Hates Cancer’s Homebrew Competition and more [Buffalo Beer League]
• Big Ditch is breaking ground with its new line of vodka-based hard teas – Jest Hard Tea [Buffalo Beer League]
• Jamie took us to Bay Leaf Restaurant [Open till Four]
• Newell just told us the story behind the pizzeria that just opened in the basement of Pearl Street Grill & Brewery – Old City Pizza [Buffalo Rising]

#30#

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