By Andrew Galarneau

My case for putting Taqueria Los Mayas at the top of your Mexican dining list starts with the details. 

House-made corn tortillas. Lard in the beans, and real cheese in the queso. Verde and rojo sauces made fresh, and the areas most compelling quesobirria con consommé tacos. 

Recently, the Cheektowaga restaurant added another dish that helps it stand apart: tortas ahogada. 

A torta is a Mexican sub with your choice of taco filling, plus beans, queso fresco, lettuce, tomato and pickled jalapeños, all on a griddled telera roll. 

Ahogada means “drowned,” denoting a torta smothered in a tomato-chile sauce that’s flavorful but not spicy. The platter comes with a partner plate of fries, for dipping.

Added to the Taqueria Los Mayas menu last month, tortas ahogada ($21) are available at lunch and dinner.

REVIEW: When demolition started at the closed, dilapidated, pint-sized City of Tonawanda restaurant Fast Teddy’s (slogan: “COLD COFFEE LOUSY FOOD”), I wondered what was coming to 222 Main St. The answer was Mr. Bowl, a shockingly professional Thai-Burmese-Malaysian restaurant that nails roast duck, General Tso’s chicken, fried chicken rice bowls and a whole bunch of other delicious dishes on its sprawling menu. (For patrons, later this week.) 

TORTUGA RETURNS IN KENMORE

After closing its Sanborn location, Central American standout Tortuga has returned to service at its Kenmore location, 3189 Delaware Ave.

Except for birria, the regular Tortuga menu is available, said owner Andrew Smiedala.

Once again, Kenmore is blessed with an abundance of good eats.

Tortuga

3189 Delaware Ave., NY, tortugasandwich.com, 716-216-6003

Hours: 11 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

More local food and restaurant stories compiled by Michael Chelus of Nittany Epicurean:

• Mr. Galarneau wrote about the Thai and Burmese dishes fit for the entire family to be found at Family Thai Riverside [Four Bites]
• Andrew also told us about Read It and Eat Bookshop coming soon to Williamsville [Four Bites]
• Christa urged us to explore local farms like LynOaken Farms and Paul’s Organic Farm for apple picking in WNY [Buffalo Spree]
• India wrote about filled round Cantonese pastries popular this time of year – Mooncakes – and where to find them locally – Over the Mooncakes [Buffalo Spree]
• Lauren told us the story behind The Farm Shop and its owner, Kelcey Gurtler [Buffalo Spree]
• George told us the story of Ambika, founder of Buffalo’s Vada-Pav & Bites [Buffalo Rising]
• Tappo is transforming into Buena Vista Social Club from 9/12-9/19 [Buffalo Rising]
• Brian’s Buffalo Beer Buzz told us about the return of WNY Beer Week, a collaboration between Big Ditch and Bar Bill and more [Buffalo Beer League]
• Local Hollow Brewing will celebrate its grand opening 9/17-9/19 [Buffalo Beer League]
• Jamie had dinner at Bratts Hill by Chef Darian to celebrate her birthday [Open till Four]
• Francesca gave us a timeline of General Mills in Buffalo over the last 85 years [Buffalo News]
• Brian also gave us more details about this year’s WNY Beer Week [Buffalo Beer League]
• Here’s a list of Bills-themed offerings from local breweries [Buffalo Beer League]

#30#

Subscribe to Four Bites! Help support great food journalism in Western New York.