Buffalo Food: Thinking of how you can make your Thanksgiving table special? The bakers and cooks and ice cream makers of Buffalo have been thinking of you, too.

(Above: Ube coconut custard pie with a tropical geometric fruit garnish, from Jenn Batt’s Quokka Sweets, order at Farm Shop.)

By Andrew Galarneau

Here’s some of the best ways I know to make this Thanksgiving memorable for all the right reasons. Order now, because this isn’t factory food, and the good stuff runs out. (Links go to order pages, if there is one.)

Fried cardoons: Since Mary Ann Giordano was already frying cardoons for one family, the chef-owner of the former Gigi’s Cucina Povera said, why not more families? “If anyone is interested in purchasing any fresh made around Thanksgiving, send me a personal message.” Reach Giordano through the Gigi’s Facebook account if you’re interested. $30 a dozen, minimum order two dozen.

Eggnog ice cream pie: Hoover’s Dairy eggnog and chocolate milk can win you friends, so imagine what showing up with a Hoover’s eggnog ice cream pie could do for your social standing. Flavors available for pickup include eggnog, pumpkin, Mexican hot fudge, cookies and cream, peanut butter cup, Butterfinger, and vanilla or chocolate with hot fudge. 6035 Ward Road, Sanborn, 716-731-3830.

Ube coconut custard pie: As pictured above, ube coconut custard pie with a tropical geometric fruit garnish adds delicious modern art to your setting. One of three pies available by pre-order through Farm Shop, by Quokka Sweets’ Jenn Batt.  Caramel apple streusel and pumpkin Basque cheesecake are the others. Order through direct messaging Farm Shop’s Instagram for pickup Nov. 26.

Paula’s glazed donut pie: Lake Effect Ice Cream’s Thanksgiving ice cream pie offerings include a doughnut crossover classic, a shortbread crust filled with Paula’s Glazed Donut ice cream, topped with crumbled Paula’s glazed fry cakes and finished with a whipped cream edge ($20).

Thanksgiving market Nov. 22 at Providence Farm Collective 

A Thanksgiving Market held in Providence Farm Collective’s new barn highlights a growing network of Western New York farm partnerships.

Shop for Providence Farm Collective produce and merchandise, Smith Farms eggs and maple syrup, Troll Bridge Farms pork and chicken, Plato Dale Farm beef, Eden Valley Creamery cheese curds and aged organic cheese, The Creamery at Burley Berries & Blooms European-style yogurt, salted butter, and Farmstead gelato. 

Events include Corn Husk Wreath Making Workshop (1 p.m.-2:30 p.m.), and hands-on activities for children 11:30 a.m.-noon, and 12:30 p.m.-1 p.m.

Providence Farm Collective, 5701 Burton Road, Orchard Park, providencefarmcollective.org, 716-473-9338.

Pumpkin roll, BreadHive

Vegan cherry pie: Lexington Co-op has a full menu available by pre-order, both vegan and not. A 9-inch vegan cherry pie ($19.99), locally raised Wendel’s turkeys ($3.79/pound) and acorn squash stuffed with wild rice ($14.99) are among the standouts.

Vegan mac and cheese: Sunshine Vegan Eats has your vegan Thanksgiving dinner all set ($225) or family-sized servings of a la carte dishes like its vegan mac and cheese ($46). Order by Nov. 23.

Take-and-bake artichoke dip: BreadHive’s offering much more than bread for Thanksgiving. Like salted honey pies ($28), maple pecan pumpkin rolls ($15), and herbed seitan loaf ($19.50) as a vegan entree. But that take-and-bake artichoke dip ($15.50) has become its own tradition for some West Siders. 

Irish whiskey pecan pie: Southern Junction, $35. Pecan pie with dark chocolate, Irish whiskey, and candied orange peel.

Poached pear and almond tart: Butter Block, $48. Pears poached in white wine, vanilla beans, star anise, cinnamon and clove, baked into almond cream in sucreé shell. Everything Butter Block does is fabulous, so just choose something.

Buttery pull-apart dinner rolls: Order by Nov. 21 from Farmers & Artisans, at $15 per dozen. This is also a great spot for last-minute pie needs. Head to the freezer for bake-from-frozen sour cherry crumb-top pies.

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SUNDAY NEWS: Hānai Hawaiian BBQ is Cali boy’s love letter to Buffalo

By Andrew Galarneau

Hānai Hawaiian BBQ pipikula beef short rib plate.(PHOTO: Evan Duckett)

Two years ago, Dave Delaney, born and raised in Southern California and Hawaii, decided to move to Buffalo.

“Friends and family thought I was crazy,” he said. “I’d never worn snow boots in my life.”

Dave Delaney of Hānai Hawaiian BBQ

His first job in Buffalo was delivering the U.S. Mail house to house, so he had to learn fast. As he trudged through the drifts on his route, feet snug in bread bags thanks to his local buddy’s protip, “that’s when I fell in love with Buffalo,” Delaney said.

That’s how Buffalo gets legit Hawaiian BBQ in Larkinville, a mile from City Hall, four days a week, for lunch and dinner. Hānai Hawaiian BBQ has taken over the kitchen at Buffalo Brewing Company, where Delaney’s years of experience in Hawaiian BBQ restaurants has so far turned out spectacularly for plate lunch fans.

Hānai Hawaiian BBQ togarishi tuna poke

Hawaiian plate lunch is blue-collar Hawaiian food, not the fancy stuff served in hotels. The genre was born feeding plantation workers, who lined up for ready-made meals dished up by the scoop. A scoop of rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and a scoop of meat or fish, the main dishes reflecting the island’s melting pot.

There’s Japanese favorites like teriyaki beef or chicken, and hamburger patties drenched in miso gravy, Korean flanken cut beef short ribs in sticky ginger soy, and Hawaiian poke, marinated cubes of fresh tuna.

Now Buffalo can enjoy Hawaiian plate lunch four days a week, for lunch or dinner. 

Pipikaula beef ribs ($21), slow-cooked then caramelized, and crunchy garlic tuna poke ($18) are popular, with Delaney cutting fresh tuna each morning for service. A citrus poke ($18) is bright with calamansi and yuzu. 

Hānai Hawaiian BBQ smoked koju chicken. (PHOTO: Evan Duckett)

Smoked koju chicken thighs with gochujang truffle sauce ($17) has a slow, sweet burn from Korean fermented chile paste. Spam musubi ($3.50), the classic Hawaiian snack, wraps crispy seaweed around seared Spam and sushi rice splashed with sweet soy.

That’s what he grew up eating as a kid, and cooking as a young man. No wonder he missed it.

In 13 years drumming with surf reggae band Pacific Dub, Delaney never got snowed out.

Delaney, born Huntington Beach, California, spent summers in Oahu with his mother’s Chinese Hawaiian parents. For 13 years he toured with surf reggae band Pacific Dub, on drums and backup vocals. Between tours, he worked at Hawaiian BBQ joints. 

After the pandemic, Delaney wanted something different. His tour manager and best friend was in Buffalo because his wife, a Buffalo native, had just had their first child. They returned to be closer to family, and raise their baby.

Hānai Hawaiian BBQ spam musubi

“He said, ‘Hey, take a breather. Come out to Buffalo. Stay in our guest room. Slow down and hang out with our new baby,” he said. “I came out here and fell in love with Buffalo.”

Delaney was working for pizza evangelist Jay Langfelder and his partner Amanda Jones at Pizzeria Florian in East Aurora when he complained about the lack of topnotch Hawaiian BBQ in Buffalo. They encouraged Delaney to give it a shot, using their kitchen. Pop-ups were so successful, Delaney got his own kitchen at Buffalo Brewing Company.

Hānai is a Hawaiian word that means to take care of, to feed and nurture, and in some cases literally adopt into your family. It reflects how he feels about his adopted hometown. “That’s it,” he said. “I want to feed Buffalo.”

Hānai Hawaiian BBQ

314 Myrtle Ave., buffalo-brewing-company.com, 716-868-2218 

Hours: Noon-8 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday. Closed Sunday-Tuesday.

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Asia Food Market’s Chinese BBQ counter

REVIEW: 

Asia Food Market, the international supermarket and fresh seafood counter, has added a Chinese BBQ operation and bakery to the vast store across from Home Depot on Niagara Falls Boulevard. Roast pork, soy sauce chicken, char siu and roast duck is available by the pound, or whole animal. Or by the entree, over rice, stir-fried with vegetables, or served in noodle soup. Buffalo just got a little bit closer to Chinatown. (Thursday, for patrons.)

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BAMBOO RIDGE 2:

Burmese restaurateur Hla Thu and partners are opening a second location of Bamboo Ridge, which found an audience for its exuberant Thai and Burmese dishes at its original 244 Allen St. location.

Bamboo Ridge 2 is set to open at noon on Monday Nov. 17, at 3574 Walden Ave., Lancaster, talking over from Street Asian Food.

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ASK THE CRITIC:

Q: I’m a student at UB and my friend is coming in from New York City and I want to buy him a cake. I live in North Campus. Where should I go?

– S.H., in person

A: Ohlson’s Bakery is just two miles away. Check out the signature cupcakes pictured above – even an undergraduate should be able to afford one of these lovelies.

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More reading from Michael Chelus:

• Andrew told us about the big-city cooking to be found at Coffee Outpost Warsaw in Wyoming County  [Four Bites]
• While Flying Bison is closing its taproom, its beer will be brewed and distributed by Hamburg Brewing Company [Buffalo News]
• Brett also visited the newly opened Mira [Buffalo News]
• More details about Hamburg Brewing’s purchase of the Flying Bison brand [Buffalo Beer League]
• Brian’s Buffalo Beer Buzz told us about a collaboration between Brickyard Brewing Company and Magic Bear Beer Cellar, New York Beer Project’s Tenth Anniversary Bash and more [Buffalo Beer League]
• Francesca told us what you can find on the menu at Sueños de Azúcar Bakery [Buffalo News]
• More coverage of the sale of Flying Bison Brewery [Buffalo Rising]
• The People’s Party: Our City, Our Celebration – the inaugural fundraising gala for Our City Action Buffalo – will take place on 11/20 at The Barrel Factory [Buffalo Spree]
• Mr. Galarneau wrote about the delicious Afghani cuisine to be found at Shah’s Food in Amherst [Four Bites]
• Francesca also wrote about Michael Mararian a/k/a Polyester Bakes who will be featured on Gordon Ramsay’s holiday-themed baking competition “Next Level Baker” [Buffalo News]

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The post SUNDAY NEWS: Hānai Hawaiian BBQ is Cali boy’s love letter to Buffalo appeared first on Four Bites.
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