Four Bites Sunday News: DaNando brings mom’s favorite sandwich home in Clarence -

Byl Andrew Galarneau

Making bare commercial restaurant space feel homey is an art. Walking into DaNando for the first time, I took in the view: gilded mable-topped tables, mirrors in ornate baroque frames, and golden pillars topped by leafy plants, and thought, “this looks like an Italian grandmother’s house.”

My second thought was “Someone’s trying too hard.”

Then I met Nando Silenzi, the proprietor, and it all made perfect sense. Not far from Main and Transit, next to Dunn Tire, Silenzi has created a sort of time machine based on his Italian mother’s house. Motherhood is one of the restaurant’s themes, with a wall dedicated to framed photographs of mothers who, like Silenzi’s, have passed on.

Silenzi decorated the space with his mother’s furniture, which makes perfect sense in a restaurant dedicated to carrying on her culinary legacy. At DaNando, the house specialty is prime Italian sandwich fixings packed into the hollowed-out end of a loaf. His mom called it a culetto, “butt.”

The dedication starts each morning, when Silenzi makes crusty hearth-baked loaves. Just to use the ends. The middle went to croutons. This week, he said a policy change is in the works, with a center-loaf option added to the menu.

At DaNando, culetto sandwiches come in large ($14.89) and extra large ($18.69). Once the soft white stuff is torn out, Silenzi refills it to order. The golfball-sized meatballs were tender without mushiness, napped in bright tomato gravy. Zucchini caponata? Yes, please.

Everything about the culetto was delicious, fine eating, except the eating itself. Trying to get a proper bite of the crusty bread, I expelled a meatball onto the table. Silenzi said the trick is to smash up the meatballs to limit their mobility.

Genuine Italian salumi that passes Silenzi’s screening is another option. Aged provolone and other fine Italian cheeses, fruity olive oil, and more are yours for the asking.

Dessert choices include cannoli ($6) in imported Sicilian shells, and seashell-shaped sfogliatelle pastries filled with cheese ($6.99).

After Silenzi started asking people if they wanted their mother’s photograph hung in his memorial restaurant, scores brought them in. Now many mothers gaze down upon customers eating Nando Silenzi’s tribute to his mom. It’s that kind of place.

DaNando, 4401 Transit Road, Suite 430, Clarence, 716-276-3121

Hours: noon-6 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, noon-7 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

REVIEW: Driving to Fredonia for dinner last week, I tried to remember the last time I’d done so, and drew a blank. I’ll remember Fredonia differently now, because it has a full-fledged Peruvian restaurant called Nana Peruvian Kitchen. Lomo saltado, brilliantly puckery ceviche in lime-cumin sauce, creamy aji de gallina chicken and eggs (above), and cilantro-chicken-rice soup are just the first wave of classics done right. (Thursday, for patrons.)

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EGGSTRAVAGANZA: Deviled eggs can be a divisive issue, so if you’re not down with yolk music, skip this.

Deviled egg people in the house? Get a load of Nov. 1’s Eggstravaganza, where you can try 40 visions of deviled egg. Plus eat brisket and more with a full dinner from renowned Texan-Indian barbecue joint Southern Junction.

It’s at Electric City, 5 p.m.-8 p.m., at 433 Pearl St.

All tickets include all the eggs you can handle, entertainment from two live bands, and Southern Junction. Tickets are $87.51 with three-hour open bar, and $63.05 for no booze. Get tickets here.

ASK THE CRITIC: Heading to Niagara on the Lake on Saturday for a getaway – any dining recommendations?

– Lydia B, on X

A: Heck yeah. If you’re really getting away to Niagara on the Lake, three stops. Get your English on with High Tea at Prince of Wales Hotel. Hit a farm-to-table pioneer with dinner at Treadwell. Save room for chimney cakes, the Hungarian specialty, at Budapest Bakeshop.

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