Macy’s Pizzeria opens in Clarence, Moriarty beer dinner, and where to find Sichuan ma-la dishes

From Four Bites by Andrew Galarneau

Flame-bronzed rotisserie chicken with garlic mayonnaise and falafel platters with pickles are Cheektowaga chow now.

Palestinian restaurateur Amira Khalil completed her move from Riverside to Cleveland Drive, celebrating the opening of Amira’s Kitchen in the former Mr. Bill’s, 1500 Cleveland Drive. 

This reporter showed up to capture the moment, and found himself cutting the ribbon, at Khalil’s request. 

Khalil and her family’s investment in Cheektowaga tripled the capacity of her restaurant. Fortunately, there’s a 60-car parking lot behind the restaurant, so if the customers materialize, there’s plenty of room for them to park.

The draws remain the same, starting with that rotisserie chicken, marinated then spin-roasted, basting in their own fat, till tender. It’s $30 for a whole bird and two sides. Hummus, babaganoush, and french fries you might expect, and chopped tomato-cucumber-scallion-green pepper salad in tahini dressing. But Amira’s sides include West Side favorites like fried plantains, and black beans.

Sandwiches rolled in pita bread can satisfy vegans (falafel and hummus, $12) or carnivores (beef kofta, $14, lamb kabob, $16) and come with za’atar-dusted fries. 

The bar remains, but there’s no alcohol, as befitting a halal restaurant. Smoothies ($8), mint lemonade ($6), and sahlab ($7), a traditional Levantine winter sipper of warm milk with coconut, perfumed with orange blossom water.

Check out the complete menu, and order online, at amiraskitchenny.com.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday-Monday. Closed Tuesday. Phone: 716-428-3000.

REVIEW

Opened three months ago, Beacon Grille has already shouldered its way into must-see territory for Buffalo diners looking for a first-class experience. The fire-driven Allen Street restaurant presents fine dining skills without white-linen fussiness, drawing from local sources and ancient inspirations, served by a hustling crew of trained professionals. Make reservations, then see what can happen when topnotch culinary talents who could work anywhere make their stand in Buffalo. (For patrons, later today.)

CHANGING HANDS

Dave Janicki, owner of Clarence steak favorite Kennedy’s Cove, has traded in “his crocs and socks for golf shoes” after 23 years. He sold the restaurant to longtime chef Jamison Reagan.

From the announcement: “1. Yes, gift certificates previously purchased will continue to be accepted under the new owner. 2. Gift certificates do not expire. 3. Kennedys Cove is NOT closing!”

CLOSINGS

The Grapevine, a family destination and vicarious aquarium stop for 40 years, has served its last fish fry. The 2545 Niagara Falls Blvd. location is closed with the retirement of owners Tom and Liza Pane.

“Our family business has had so many awesome experiences in the community, and it brings us great satisfaction,” the Pane family said in a statement. “We want to say thank you to everyone who dined with us, whether you have been dining with us for years or just now found us. We are grateful for your continued support and loyalty that you have brought us.”

Gift certificates can be used at Grapevine Banquets, 333 Dick Road, Depew.

EVENTS

Moriarty Oktoberfest: On Sept. 25, meet certified cicerone Craig Altobello of Magic Bear Beer Cellar, pairing brews with chef Jennifer Boye’s Oktoberfest-inspired menu.

It’s dinnertime at Cafe Bar Moriarty, 1650 Elmwood Ave.

Four courses, family style, with a beer pairing per course. “You will be seated with the number of tickets you purchase. Please note at the time of booking if you have any allergies or if you have any restrictions preventing you from sitting at a high top table or at the bar,” the invitation notes.

Cash bar 5:30 p.m. First course 6 p.m. sharp. 

Tickets, $80, do not include sales tax or gratuity. Get your tickets here. (A $10 deposit per ticket is required.)

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: What’s the word on pepper chicken that makes your lips tingle?

• Chris McKean, Buffalo

A: Since Chinese Chinese restaurants started opening near the University at Buffalo’s North Campus, ma-la has joined Frank’s Hot among the greatest spice sensations in town.

Dried chiles in Chinese food is nothing new to fans of General Tso’s chicken and other paragons of Chinese-American cuisine. What’s new is Sichuan peppercorn, actually a bud from a member of the ash family, whose tongue-numbing effects are used by skilled tools to balance chile flames. Ma-la is the fire-and-ice interplay between the two elements.